Introduction
The cosmetics industry has been continuously developing throughout the years and has taken steps to make the sourcing of ingredients and raw materials more sustainable (1), with brands like NARS leading the way in innovation and quality. NARS powder blush, which features 20 fresh and bestselling shades with a weightless feel (2), is particularly celebrated for its vibrant colors and smooth application. This research paper looks into the raw materials used in the life cycle of NARS powder blush, focusing on each stage from material extraction to the final product.
Mica is a crucial component of NARS powder blush, valued for its shimmering quality, which adds a luminous glow to the blush. Mica is common in granitic pegmatite and is also an important rock-forming mineral (3). It is a naturally occurring mineral found in countries like India, Brazil, and China. The mining process involves extracting large quantities of ore from mica-rich deposits, followed by a series of processes to isolate and purify the mica.
The extraction of mica involves surface mining and open-pit mining techniques. Once mined, the mica ore undergoes initial cleaning to remove impurities and is then ground into fine particles. This grinding process creates the glittery powder essential for cosmetic applications. Further refinement processes include sieving and flotation to ensure the mica is of cosmetic grade quality, free from contaminants.
Separating mica from the other components in the blush is difficult, therefore recycling it from finished products is not common practice.
Talc, another primary ingredient in NARS powder blush, is known for providing a smooth texture. Its two winning properties make it very suitable for this role, which is its outstanding spreadability for a smooth application and its low covering power, aka translucency, to avoid clown-like effects (4). Talc is a mineral composed of magnesium, silicon, and oxygen and is the softest known mineral with a pearly luster (5). It is mined from deposits primarily found in countries such as China, India, and the USA.
Talc extraction involves open-pit mining, where large chunks of talc ore are blasted and then transported to processing plants. At these plants, the ore undergoes crushing and grinding to produce fine talc powder. Purification processes ensure that the talc is safe for cosmetic use, removing any asbestos fibers or other impurities that might be present.
Similar to mica, talc particles are small and require significant processing to be reused, which makes it hard to recycle them from finished products.
Natural pigments are derived from plant, animal, or mineral sources. The accumulation of natural pigments determines the floral coloration in most flowering plants (6). For example, carmine is a red pigment derived from cochineal insects, while iron oxides are commonly used mineral pigments that provide a range of hues from red to yellow.
Synthetic pigments are created through chemical processes to produce consistent and vibrant colors. These pigments are essential for achieving the wide array of shades offered by NARS powder blush. Synthetic pigments undergo rigorous testing to ensure they are safe for use in cosmetics and do not cause skin irritation.
Pigments, both natural and synthetic, are often mixed with other ingredients, making separation and reclamation difficult.
Caprylic triglyceride, or capric triglyceride, is a compound that combines fatty acids from natural oils, such as coconut oil, with glycerin. (7)
The compound is a stable alternative to other oils. Cosmetics and makeup containing fatty compounds may use caprylic triglyceride. Manufacturers may prefer the compound over other options because it is smooth but not sticky or greasy. (7)
Isododecane is a colorless liquid that is commonly found in many cosmetic, hair care, and skincare products. (8)
Isododecane enhances the texture of the formulation and increases the spreadability of the product. It is a non-comedogenic ingredient and does not block the pores or cause acne. The matte finish that Isododecane provides is much loved. (8)
Plastic is an incredibly versatile category of materials that are used in packaging, construction, medical equipment, and electronics (9). It is often used for the outer casing and sometimes for inner components. High-quality plastics such as ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) or acrylic are common due to their durability and aesthetic appeal.
Many cosmetic containers are made from recyclable plastics like PET or PP. If properly sorted, these can be recycled into new plastic products.
Some compacts feature metal parts for hinges or clasps, typically made from aluminum or stainless steel for their strength and lightweight properties.
Components like aluminum parts can be melted down and reused.
Occasionally, small mirrors within the compact are made of glass, though plastic mirrors are also common.
Cardboard packaging are among the most economical packaging types. Using less raw materials, more durable but thin, light, economical cardboard is produced (10). It is used for outer boxes that provide structure and protection. Cardboard is often sourced from recycled materials to enhance sustainability.
Thin layers of tissue paper or paper inserts might be used for cushioning and separating individual items within a box.
Conclusion
The life cycle of NARS powder blush, from the extraction of raw materials to the disposal of the finished product, involves a series of intricate processes. Each stage is crucial for ensuring the quality and performance of the product that consumers love. By examining these stages, we gain a deeper appreciation for the importance of each raw material used and recycled in its production.
Introduction:
NARS Cosmetics is a French cosmetics and skincare company, founded in 1994. They are recognized for their minimalist matte black packaging created by Fabien Baron, who designed this signature look for the brand. Among their wide variety of products, one of their most popular is their Powder Blush, advertised with up to 16-hour wear and strong color payoff. Part of its appeal is the product’s risqué shade names, which have easily caught the attention of makeup buyers. Through their digital platforms, NARS is very transparent about the materials in their blush, which was reformulated recently to be vegan. However, the energy utilized to produce this product is less evident to customers. This paper seeks to analyze the energy consumption of NARS Powder Blush, from when its raw materials are extracted to the disposal of the product. The fossil fuel inputs needed for the production of NARS Powder Blush significantly contribute to its overall impact on the environment. Although its energy usage is not mentioned on the item's website description, it is something the brand should strive to explore for improved clean energy and sustainability.
To make this cosmetic product, the primary step in its life cycle is the acquisition of raw materials. This acquisition of materials involves chemical energy, as well as fossil fuels and human labor. Materials in this specific blush are both naturally derived and synthetically produced. Some of the main ingredients in NARS Powder Blush—as listed on their website— include mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and zinc stearate. Synthetic fluorphlogopite is a synthetic alternative to mica, composed of aluminum and manganese (SpecialChem). Mica, zinc, aluminum, and manganese are all obtained through mining. Machine labor is first used to excavate soil and rock on top of ore. Once the heavy lifting is completed, humans will use hand tools like drills, picks, and shovels to further extract raw minerals. After, these materials will be transported to factories to be combined and converted into secondary materials, like the compound ingredients listed by NARS. The machinery employed for mining “run on fossil fuels that release CO2 and other pollutants, while explosives produce carbon monoxide, which also contributes to global warming” (MIT Climate Portal). Compared to other industries, the energy consumed for mining is not as detrimental as some, but still has a notable impact on carbon emissions. Many mining companies are attempting to swap fossil fuels with low-carbon electricity which should be a cleaner alternative. A great deal of chemical energy is released as these cosmetic minerals are extracted and processed, and a mixture of both human and machine labor is necessary for these phases.
After the materials have been extracted and acquired for the product, these resources undergo manufacturing processes. To make this blush, its mineral ingredients and pigments are combined by large industrial mixers in factories. Then, this mixture undergoes a wet grinding process to break down any large particles and create a smooth, fine powder. Machine dispensers will add a liquid binder to the mix, then workers will hand press it into pans. They undergo a quality check before being placed into their final packaging. Similar to raw material acquisition, both machine and human labor are required for manufacturing. The primary employment of technologies to complete production means labor for workers isn’t too intensive; but in turn, more emissions are given off by factories. The machines in these factories rely on electricity and natural gas to power them. Because of the usage of advanced machinery, thousands of a single makeup product can be produced in a short amount of time. This strongly contributes to the issue of overconsumption and excess waste. The manufacturing processes for sectors like cosmetics has actually shown slight improvements in recent years. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, “U.S. manufacturing is becoming more fuel-efficient and less labor-intensive since 1998. Manufacturing gross output grew by 12% while fuel consumption decreased by 16%” (EIA). The growth in fuel efficiency is positive, meaning there is a decreasing reliance on fossil fuels within operating factories. Still, manufacturing is not entirely clean and could be studied to reduce waste and the production of pollutants.
Transportation occurs all throughout the life cycle for NARS Powder Blush, as materials are brought to factories and products are brought to consumers. On their website and company information, NARS is indirect about where their products are originally manufactured. Operating under the Shiseido Company, it can be assumed that many of NARS Cosmetics are manufactured in Japanese factories. Other suppliers for NARS are presumably based in China and Canada. The cosmetics from Asia are packed on container ships and sent to the United States, where many consumers are based. From here, planes and trucks are utilized for further deliveries. It’s important to note that since NARS has internationally based manufacturers, their shippers travel greater distances, as compared to cosmetic companies based on U.S. assemblage. Products like cosmetics often rely on fast shipping and transportation, which consumes great deals of chemical energy and fossil fuels. Vehicles require power from petroleum products like crude oil and gasoline which are harmful to the natural world. Transportation is responsible for roughly 15% of global Greenhouse Gases and is a “major contributor to other air pollutants” (Stanford Energy). The vehicles used to distribute this product are one of the biggest factors regarding its overall environmental impact. It is convenient that the blush is a small, compact product, allowing thousands to be transported at once, but this still doesn’t exemplify strong sustainability. Cosmetic companies should consider funding for electric or natural gas powered vehicles to distribute
