The cosmetic industry requires a variety of different ingredients for skin care products. These include peptides, growth factors, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory botanicals, and polysaccharides. As these products show drug-like effects they are commonly referred to as cosmeceuticals. Originally, peptides became of interest in cosmetics as a result of the discovery of their beneficial effects in wound healing. As peptides are involved in an immense number of physiological processes, it was logical to further exploit them for cosmetic applications. Most of the peptides used in cosmetics are designed to counteract the aging process of the skin. The need for such products is driven by the increasing desire in modern society to maintain a young appearance even at an older age, and the breadth of possible treatments to achieve this goal. The increasing knowledge about the molecular details of the skin-related aging processes has significantly contributed to the exploration of novel anti-aging agents.
As people age, collagen and elastin fibers decline, which weakens the skin. As a result, the skin becomes less firm, leading to fine lines and wrinkles.4 in contrast, peptides help smoothen the skin by increasing collagen production and improving elasticity.
Your skin is a barrier that protects you from the sun's uv rays, microorganisms, and pollution. Some evidence suggests that peptides help support the skin barrier, protecting you from uv damage. In addition to aging, uv exposure also causes fine lines and wrinkles.
Some peptides have antimicrobial properties. In other words, those peptides get rid of microorganisms, like bacteria. Some evidence suggests that antimicrobial peptides help with chronic skin conditions, including acne. When bacteria clog the pores on your skin, your immune system responds. As a result, pimples form on the skin. In contrast, antimicrobial peptides might prevent bacteria from clogging the pores.
Collagen is a key protein in wound healing. Since peptides boost collagen production, some products with peptides may help heal minor injuries. What's more, since some peptides have antimicrobial properties, some evidence suggests that peptides repair the skin while preventing infections. People with trouble healing wounds, like some with diabetes, may benefit from the healing properties of peptides.
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Aged skin is, amongst others, characterized by reduced levels of collagen and elastin. Increasing the number of fibroblasts or their collagen production and/or inhibiting further collagen hydrolysis are therefore considered effective means to halt or slow the aging process of the skin. Many of the peptides used in cosmetic preparations are compounds which act on fibroblasts. The n-terminally palmitoylated peptide is marketed under the name of palmitoyloligopeptide and is supposed to penetrate more efficiently through the epidermis than the parent compound. It augments type I and ii collagen and fibronectin production in a dose- and time-dependent manner with no effect on total protein synthesis or on the ratio of secreted proteins to cell-associated proteins.
Many of the peptides used in cosmetic preparations belong to the group of neurotransmitter-affecting peptides. These peptides act in a similar way as botulinum toxin (botox). By inhibiting signal transduction pathways at neuromuscular junctions they attenuate the formation of wrinkles and fine lines which appear over time due to the repetitive contraction of the intrinsic muscles of facial expression. Botulinum toxin, synthesized by the bacterium clostridium botulinum, is the most potent toxin known. It is a disulfide-linked heterodimer consisting of a heavy and a light chain. Upon binding to the peripheral neuronal presynaptic membrane mediated by the heavy chain the toxin is internalized by receptor-mediated endocytosis. After translocation from the endocytotic vesicle into the cytoplasm, the light chain proteolytically cleaves either snap-25 or synaptobrevin depending on the serological subtype of the neurotoxin. Cleavage of these proteins which are essential for docking to and fusion of acetylcholine vesicles with the inner side of the nerve terminal membrane results in the inhibition of neurotransmitter release at neuromuscular junctions.
The tripeptide h-gly-his-lys-oh (ghk) was originally identified in human plasma and has a high affinity for copper2+ (cu2+). It acts as a signaling peptide and a carrier molecule for copper which is a co-factor for several enzymes involved in collagen and elastin formation. The copper peptide was shown to stimulate wound healing but also to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and to improve elasticity and firmness of aged skin. A wide variety of effects have been ascribed to ghk-cu. The peptide exhibits anti-inflammatory actions by suppressing the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines. It also chemoattracts capillary cells, macrophages and mast cells, increases the synthesis of collagen and elastin, and stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes.
Many peptides used in cosmetic preparations act by other mechanisms to improve skin appearance or delay skin aging. These include ros scavengers, collagen fiber organizing compounds, and anti-inflammatory peptides: Peptides such as carnosine, anserine and carcinine are histidine dipepeptides with antioxidant activity. Carnosine has been shown to scavenge ros and chelate prooxidative metals. It also inactivates reactive mono- and dialdehydes released during the oxidative breakdown of unsaturated lipids thereby protecting hydrophilic and lipophilic biological molecules from oxidative damage.
It's a common myth that exfoliating skin care ingredients, like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), break down all peptides, rendering them ineffective.
The truth is that there are hundreds of peptides and while some may be vulnerable to this, many will not. When formulated properly with compatible pH levels and stabilization in mind, peptides and skin care acids can (and should) be used together. Each peptide that Paula's Choice chooses to formulate with can be used alongside skin care acids while remaining effective in the pH range that hydroxy acids require to exfoliate skin. Because of this, these hand-selected peptides also remain stable when skin’s pH is temporarily lowered by use of a hydroxy acid-based exfoliant.
However, some acids are particularly adept at breaking down peptides. Strong acids, like hydrochloric acid (a gastric acid found in our digestive system), can break down peptides through a process called acid hydrolysis. Breaking down peptides and other compounds is what these strong acids are designed to do, especially for processes like digesting proteins in the foods we eat.
Before we talk about peptides, it’s important to understand what amino acids are. Peptides are strings of amino acids, which are the building blocks that make up proteins in our body, including collagen in the skin. Without these proteins, we will see wrinkles, brittle nails and dry hair that’s prone to breakage.
Aside from being essential to the skin's structure and function (important factors in firmness, texture and overall appearance), peptides are found in every human cell and play an important role in how the body functions, often acting as a biologic messenger. We need peptides at all times. If we are deficient in them, our body cannot functio. Peptides have a myriad of uses in the body, from being the building blocks for enzymes, hormones and an energy source.
So if peptides are already present within the body, why do we need more of them? The answer, according to experts, is aging. We lose 1% of our remaining collagen per year after age 30. Our skin’s natural communication channels also slow down over time.
But simply slathering peptides onto your skin doesn't necessarily give you more of them. Your body sees these peptides as ‘signals’ that you need to heal, which tells your body to produce more collagen where you need it most. If you are healing from an injury in your ankle, those peptides will signal your body to focus its repair efforts in that joint. If your skin is aging prematurely, those peptides might signal your skin to boost its production of collagen and even hyaluronic acid, plumping up your skin and restoring a healthy skin barrier. When you introduce exogenous peptides onto the skin in the form of a moisturizer or serum, it tricks the skin into thinking there’s been an injury or wound, and it stimulates our collagen-boosting processes.
So you’ve figured out which type of peptide and product you need for your skin but now what? Wondering what the best way is to add peptides into your routine? Well, you’re in luck! Peptides are incredibly versatile. Here’s how you can seamlessly add peptides into your daily skincare routine:
Timing is completely up to you! We recommend using them both during the day or night. Use a peptide serum or moisturiser in the morning to protect your skin against daily environmental stressors. Apply a peptide moisturiser at night to seal in hydration so that you wake up with very plump and soft skin.
