Helen Frankenthaler Foundation

Research Grade Peptides for Cosmetics

A review of environmental and health effects of synthetic cosmetics

Result and discussion

Chart 1 Show trends in publications and citations on Human Health and ecological effects of synthetic cosmetics (2000–2023). The data for “Chart 1” were obtained from multiple reputable scientific databases, including PubMed, Web of Science, Scopus, and Google Scholar. These databases were chosen due to their comprehensive coverage of scientific literature and their reliability in providing peer-reviewed literature on synthetic cosmetic and their effect.

To gather relevant data, we used specific search strings tailored to identify studies on health and ecological risks associated with cosmetic ingredients. The search strings used are keywords in Figure 2. The search results were filtered to include peer-reviewed articles and reviews published within the last decade. Data were extracted from the selected studies and categorized into health and ecological risks. Synthesizing this data to provide a comprehensive overview of the trends, which were then visualized in “Chart 1.”

CHART 1

FIGURE 2

The Chart titled “Trend in publication and citations on human health and ecological effects of synthetic cosmetics (2000–2023)” illustrates the academic interest and impact of research in this field over 23 years. Publications addressing human health effects are depicted with a blue line, while those addressing environmental effects are shown with a grey line. The trends illustrate the growing academic interest and impact in these fields over the past two decades. The data is divided into four categories: Human health risk publications, Human health risk citations, Ecological risk publications, and Ecological risk citations.

Human health risk publications (blue line)

The blue line represents the number of publications focused on human health risks associated with synthetic cosmetics. Over the years, this number has remained relatively stable, with minor fluctuations. The number of publications typically stays below 100 per year, indicating a constant but modest level of research activity in this area. This suggests that while there is ongoing interest, the volume of new research published annually has not seen significant growth.

Human health risk citations (red line)

The red line shows the number of citations for publications on human health risks. Unlike the steady trend in publications, citations exhibit significant fluctuations. Notable peaks occur around 2008 and 2018, indicating periods of heightened academic or public interest in these studies. These spikes may be linked to regulatory changes, high-profile studies, or increased public awareness. However, there is a sharp decline in citations after 2020, suggesting a decrease in the impact or relevancy of earlier studies in recent years.

Ecological risk publications (gray line)

The grey line represents publications on the ecological risks of synthetic cosmetics. These publications are consistently fewer in number compared to those on human health risks, remaining below 50 per year. The trend is relatively flat, showing little variation over the years. This indicates that ecological concerns have not significantly driven an increase in research output, possibly reflecting either a lower priority or fewer resources allocated to this area compared to human health.

Ecological risk citation (yellow line)

The yellow line tracks citations of ecological risk publications. Citation in this category also shows high peaks, particularly around 2008 and 2018, similar to the pattern observed for human health risk citation but with a much higher magnitude. This suggests that during these peak years, studies on ecological risks had a significant academic or public impact. Following these peaks, there, is a notable decline in citations after 2020, which may indicate a shift in the research focuses or a decrease in the perceived relevance of previous studies.

The overall trend depicted in the chart reveals that while the number of publications on human health and ecological risks od synthetic cosmetics has been stable and relatively low, the impact of these publications, as measured by citations, has experienced significant fluctuations. Picks in citation numbers around 2008 and 2018 highlight periods of increased attention, possibly due to emerging evidence, regulatory changes, or heightened public concern. However, the decline in citations post-2020 suggests shifting interest or a saturation point in the field, where newer studies may be needed to reignite academic and public interest.

Databases and sources for health risk trends

  • 1. PubMed: A comprehensive database of biomedical literature, PubMed contains numerous studies on the health effects of cosmetic ingredients such as parabens, UV filters, and fragrances. Researchers and healthcare professionals frequently use this database to access peer-reviewed articles on allergic reactions, endocrine disruption, and other health impacts.
  • 2. Scopus: Scopus offers extensive coverage of scientific, technical, medical, and social science research. It includes articles on the long-term health effects of various cosmetic ingredients, regulatory updates, and emerging trends in toxicology and public health.
  • 3. Web of Science: This multidisciplinary database provides access to research articles, conference proceedings, and reviews. It is useful for tracking the latest studies on the health risks of cosmetic ingredients and understanding the evolving landscape of regulatory science.
  • 4. Regulatory Agencies: Regulatory bodies such as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), and Health Canada publish guidelines, safety assessments, and updates on restricted or banned substances in cosmetics. These sources provide authoritative information on regulatory trends and health risk assessments.

Databases and sources for ecological risk trends

  • 1. Environmental Science Databases: Databases like Environmental Science and Technology (ES&T) and the Journal of Environmental Management publish research on the environmental impacts of cosmetic ingredients, including their persistence, bioaccumulation, and toxicity to aquatic life.
  • 2. Google Scholar: A freely accessible web search engine that indexes scholarly articles across various disciplines. It provides access to studies on the ecological effects of ingredients like triclosan, microplastics, and UV filters.
  • 3. ScienceDirect: An extensive database offering access to a large collection of scientific and technical research articles. It covers studies on the environmental behavior and risks of cosmetic ingredients.
  • 4. Government and Environmental Organizations: Reports and publications from organizations such as the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the European Environment Agency (EEA), and the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) provide data and analyses on the ecological risks of cosmetic ingredients.

How the trends are based

Health risks

The trends in health risks are based on a synthesis of findings from clinical studies, toxicological research, and regulatory assessments. These include experimental data on allergic reactions, long-term exposure effects, and endocrine disruption, as well as updates from regulatory bodies on banned or restricted substances.

Ecological risks

The trends in ecological risks are derived from environmental monitoring studies, ecotoxicological research, and reports on the persistence and bioaccumulation of cosmetic ingredients in ecosystems. These studies provide insights into how these substances affect aquatic life, microbial communities, and overall ecosystem health.

Health and ecological risks of cosmetic ingredients

Health risks of cosmetic ingredients

Cosmetic ingredients, while enhancing appearance and personal hygiene, can pose significant health risks to consumers. These risks range from immediate allergic reactions to long-term health concerns, including hormonal disruptions and chronic illnesses. Understanding these risks is crucial for making informed choices about cosmetic products.

Increase in allergic reactions due to parabens and fragrances

Parabens, commonly used as preservatives in cosmetics, have been linked to an increase in allergic reactions. These compounds can cause skin irritation, rashes, and other dermatological issues, especially in individuals with sensitive skin (Rastogi et al., 1995; Zareba et al., 2007). Fragrances, another prevalent ingredient in cosmetics, are also major allergens. Studies have shown that fragrances can cause contact dermatitis and exacerbate conditions like eczema and asthma.

Long-term health effects of UV filters and endocrine disruptors

UV filters, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, are essential in protecting skin from harmful UV radiation. However, these chemicals are also known as endocrine disruptors, capable of interfering with hormone function. Long-term exposure to UV filters has been associated with reproductive issues, developmental problems, and an increased risk of certain cancers. Endocrine disruptors in cosmetics, including phthalates and bisphenol A (BPA), similarly pose risks, affecting thyroid function and metabolic processes over time (Li et al., 2017; Liu et al., 2021).

Regulatory updates on banned or restricted substances

Regulatory bodies worldwide are continually updating lists of banned or restricted substances in cosmetics to protect public health. For instance, the European Union’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) regularly reviews and restricts the use of harmful chemicals like certain parabens, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, and specific UV filters (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, 2021). These regulatory changes aim to mitigate the risks posed by toxic cosmetic ingredients and promote safer alternatives.

Ecological risks of cosmetic ingredients

Cosmetic ingredients not only affect human health but also pose significant ecological risks. These substances can accumulate in the environment, disrupting ecosystems and harming wildlife. Understanding these risks is essential for developing sustainable cosmetic products.

Bioaccumulation and persistence of parabens and UV filters in aquatic environments

Parabens and UV filters once washed off the skin, enter aquatic environments through wastewater. Studies have shown that these chemicals persist in water bodies, bioaccumulate in aquatic organisms, and disrupt endocrine functions in fish and other wildlife (Brausch and Rand, 2011). The long-term environmental persistence of these substances raises concerns about their cumulative impact on aquatic ecosystems (Ullah et al., 2017).

Impact of triclosan and other antimicrobials on microbial communities and aquatic life

Triclosan, an antimicrobial agent used in many personal care products, has been found to adversely affect microbial communities in aquatic environments. This disruption can lead to antibiotic resistance and negatively impact the health of aquatic life. Research indicates that triclosan can impair reproduction and development in fish, amphibians, and invertebrates (Liu and Wong, 2013).

Studies on the effects of microplastics from exfoliants on marine ecosystems

Microplastics, often used in exfoliating products, pose a significant threat to marine ecosystems. These tiny plastic particles are ingested by marine organisms, leading to physical harm, chemical contamination, and disruption of feeding behaviors. Studies have documented the presence of microplastics in various marine species, indicating widespread ecological impact and highlighting the need for biodegradable alternatives (Gago et al., 2018).

Toxic ingredients in cosmetics

A significant issue in the cosmetics industry is the general lack of consumer awareness about the various chemicals that these products contain. Many individuals are unaware that cosmetics often include a multitude of chemicals, each with its specific purpose. Some of these chemicals can pose risks to our health and the environment. Although not every chemical in cosmetics is harmful, it is crucial to understand the ingredients in the products we use. Opting for products with natural or organic ingredients when possible is a good practice. By educating ourselves about the common chemicals in cosmetics, we can make more informed decisions and take proactive measures to protect both our health and the environment (National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences, 2007; Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, 2021).

The usage of substances with preservative action, surfactants, perfumes, stains, etc., has expanded today due to innovation, research, and the development of new cosmetic goods (Park, 2023). These ingredients improve the caliber, functionality