Helen Frankenthaler PCB Circuit Board R&D Center

Copper Core HDI PCB for Motor Control

Massive 20-oz. Copper PCB Enables Electric Racing

Massive 20-oz. Copper PCB Enables Electric Racing

Is twenty times the copper twenty times as much fun to work with? Ask limpkin and follow along as he fabricates a DC/DC block for a Formula E race car on 20-oz copper PCBs.

The typical boards you order from OSH Park and the like usually come with 1-ounce copper – that’s one ounce of copper cladding per square foot of board. For those averse to Imperial units, that’s a copper layer 34 micrometers thick. limpkin’s Formula E control board needs to carry a lot of current, so he specified 700-micrometer thick cladding, or 20-oz per square foot. The board pictured cost $2250, so you’d figure soldering on the components would be an exotic process, but aside from preheating the board, limpkin took it in stride. Check out the image gallery of the session and you’ll see nothing but a couple of regular high-wattage soldering irons, with dirty tips to boot.

It’s pretty neat comparing what’s needed for power electronics versus the normal small signal stuff we usually see. We’d recommend looking at Brian Benchoff’s “Creating a PCB in Everything” series for design tips, but we’re not sure traditional tools will work for boards like these. And just for fun, check out the Formula E highlights video below the break to see what this build is part of.

Thanks to vinnycordeiro for the tip.

Comments

  • icanhaz says: For $2250 I would think you could just mill some copper plate and glue it down to some fr4.

    • gh0stwriter88 says: Or the other way… epoxy it to fr4 and then mill it…seems like that would be easier to me.

      • Eliot says: Dip the whole thing in paint as solder mask then drill all the through holes and the mill the paint off pads. You’ve got plenty of copper to work with.
    • Rodney McKay says: $2250? I think I would have used point-to-point wiring with whatever gauge was needed. Duh.

      • Gregg Bond (@cabe_bedlam) says: Weight, and vibration control. 4Tthis is after all an elite motorsport.

        • kekm[8] says: point to point wiring and fixing it with a dissolveable resin layer so you just dissolve it, repair and pour resin back in.
  • mikes electric stuff says: a Metcal or JBC iron would have soldered this fine without a hotplate.

    • macona says: I have soldered some big stuff with my metcal, but I think this would be too much for it.

      • packrat says: This is the reason to buy a seventy year old American Beauty for 5.00 at a hamfest, the kind that has a heating shaft on it bigger around than a curling iron… Oh yeah–she’ll heat up. This board is a lovely proof of concept, but I’m with the other commenters who took one look at the price and were immediately sent brainstorming an alternative build.
      • AC says: Metcals can solder pennies together….
        • macona says: Most pennies are zinc core.
        • Jason says: Can confirm. I’ve soldered wires to pennies before for makeshift 18650 battery contacts. I’ve also soldered brass plugs in 1″ brass Sharkbite fittings for temperature sensors in a hydronic heating system. Also soldered 4AWG (not easily) when repairing a car battery cable. MX-5000s (and MX-500s) are beasts with the right tips.
  • smellsofbikes says: December 16, 2016 at 4:12 pm